The surf...

Alicia was right... this blog is going to be mostly about Surfing. But i can't not write about it. Over the last year its became a huge part of my life.

I've always considered myself never more than average. Average at sport, average looking, average body, average personality. I never felt like i had anything going for me to set me apart from the rest. I felt like i was destined for more, but was ready to write myself off as an average achiever. Until summer of 07/08. That summer i decided to step out of my boundaries and try something new. I signed myself up for 3 surfing lessons. Thinking that i would give it crack & that like many other things i wouldn't be overly keen on the whole thing & wouldn't be any good either. So it would make it easy to never try again.

Jason was very supportive. Getting up at 8am on his weekends to drive me down to Torquay. I could of driven myself, but i guess he wanted to be there with me. Once i put the wetsuit on i wish he wasn't. If you ever want to feel the most unflattering you've ever felt, then just put one of those on. They don't hide a thing. I tried to carry my 8 foot board down to the beach, but my arms don't quite reach around, so i constantly had to stop to get a better grip.

Each lesson went for 2 hours. 2 hours of paddling, getting knocked about and swallowing more than your daily 2lt of water, just to ride the wave in to do it all over again & again. I couldn't get enough of it. I couldn't breath and i couldn't see. But i just kept on trucking. Once i caught that first wave and was standing up i knew i couldn't stop. This was my thing. This was my thing to set me apart from the rest.

I've now manage to have one of the best summers of my life. I've been maybe not as much as i can, but i'm getting there. Surfing is now slowly becoming a lifestyle choice for me. With each day passing all i can think of is the next time i go. I'm no where near the best i could be, but with more practice i will get there. I appricate the encouragement that i receive from friends when i am out there, but the pointers and tips from those that are not fellow surfers are not needed. This is my thing & as selfish as it may sound i don't want to share it with anyone else. I want to be able to achieve greatness on my board all on my own. I feel like i have finally found the one thing that is going to make me feel more than average.

Cheers

xxx